Twig Banner Tutorial

Nature-y patterns sometimes call for a little something extra! For my Mossy Frog cross stitch design, I created a wall hanging using a real twig found outdoors. Follow the steps below to make your own using common craft supplies (and a stick) 🌿

Before You Start...

Note that this tutorial requires some ingenuity and a good command of certain stitches and techniques, such as a loop start and blanket stitch. As such, I recommend this tutorial for slightly more experienced crafters.

This banner finish is more delicate than styles with a fully integrated dowel, making it best suited for indoor display in a spot where it won't be handled or bumped. The blanket stitch edges are also worth handling with care, even after finishing.

Here's what your finished banner will look like:

Materials

  • Fabric with your stitched project. For the Mossy Frog pattern, I used Zweigart 32ct Murano evenweave in the color Plum (nr. 9033)
  • Scissors, ideally sharp, precision ones
  • Ruler
  • 1–2 sheets of felt or batting/wadding
  • Backing fabric - I used a regular cotton piece in the color sage green
  • DMC 554 or another thread of your choice
  • Pins
  • Pencil. For dark fabrics, consider using a white chalk pencil for visibility. Chalk pencil marks can also be easily erased and redrawn.
  • Embroidery needle
  • Twig! The one I selected (read: found) is quite straight, and roughly 20 cm/8 inches. If you've found a nice stick but it's too long, you can simply saw it to size.

Cleaning

Before getting started, I recommend giving your stick a good clean. For mine, I carefully brushed away any loose dirt, then soaked it briefly in a mixture of water and dish soap, and a bit of vinegar. I left it to dry overnight before use.

Measuring & Marking

Before we cut our fabric, it's important to determine how large we want our margins to be. How much empty space do you want around your stitching? This is a question only you can answer, as it depends on taste.

For my own version of this project, I decided 17cm wide x 24cm high (6.7" x 9.4") would be the right size. I used the sun in the Mossy Frog pattern as a rough middle point. If you're following along with a different pattern, I suggest finding its natural (or visual) centre point and adding equal length on all sides.

Once you're sure about your margins, you can mark the size you decided on with a pencil. Be sure to place these markings just outside your preferred cutting lines, so they will be cut away in the next step.

I first marked the edges of my cutting lines roughly, then I went in with a ruler to draw their full length.

Pinning & Cutting

Next, take your backing fabric and place your stitched fabric on top of it, right side up. Your project is now two-layered, with the back of your stitching nicely covered.

Pin the two fabrics together by sliding pins through both layers, on the inside of your cutting lines. This keeps both layers from shifting while you cut and, later on, stitch.

Once secure, cut both fabrics at the same time, slightly within lines you drew. For perfectly straight lines, use the holes of your Aida/evenweave/linen as a guide and cut between them.

Adding Rounded Corners

For my version of this project, I added rounded corners once the basic shape was cut out. These make the blanket stitch easier later on, as you won't have to manoeuvre around sharp corners. Cutting rounded corners can feel tricky - it's a little freehand, but you can totally do it!🙂 If it makes you feel more comfortable, you can also lightly sketch them first with your pencil.

Fraying

At this point, your fabric edges are most vulnerable to fraying, particularly around the rounded corners. Some edges may already be coming undone. Resist the urge to pull out any loose threads - if you find you have many sticky-out bits, try carefully cutting them off instead.

Blanket-Stitching The Edges

Once you've cut your fabric and rounded your corners, it's time to secure those edges! The blanket stitch is an easy, versatile stitch. For my own version of this project, I've used 2 strands of DMC 554.

Starting Your Stitch

For a knot-free result, I like to use a loop start. To prepare your thread for this, cut a long bit of thread and fold it in half. Thread your needle with the two loose ends, leaving the folded loop at the other end.

Push your threaded needle from the front of your work through both layers of fabric, a short distance in from the edge (this will be your stitch depth, and it's best kept consistent throughout). Before pulling the thread all the way through, pass your needle through the loop you created. Pull snug, and you've got a secure, knot-free start, with your first stitch running perpendicular to the fabric edge.

Blanket Stitch

Now push your needle through both layers of fabric once more, again from the front, keeping the same distance from the edge but moving a little further along. Before pulling the thread tight, pass your needle through the loop of thread that formed over the edge. Pull snug (but not too tight) and you'll see the characteristic little bar form along the edge. That's one cute blanket stitch!

Repeat from there, removing pins as you go and keeping your stitch spacing and depth as even as you can. Around your rounded corners, fan your stitches a little - this process can be eyeballed.

To finish a thread, pass your needle between the layers, make a small knot and tuck it.

At this step, it's important to leave the top edge of your work unstitched, so you can insert your felt/batting/wadding next.

Inserting Your Padding

With the edges of your project almost fully secured, it's time to insert the padding! For this step, you'll need 1 to 2 sheets of felt or batting/wadding. I used 2 sheets of white felt for my own version of this project.

I love this step because the padding adds a bit of weight to your project, helping it hang nicely. It also gives it a lovely polished, luxurious look.

Cutting Your Padding

The most important thing here is that your padding fits nicely within your blanket stitches. I recommend cutting it gradually, measuring frequently and taking off more as you go. Don't forget to account for the top edge too - the blanket stitching here hasn't been added yet, but it will take up just as much space as it does everywhere else, so make sure your padding is cut to allow for it.

Insert your padding as best you can (it might put up a fight, but you're not easily deterred!), smoothing it out and filling all the corners. Make sure you're happy with its placement before moving on to the next step.

Stitching the Leftover Edge

It's time to finish your blanket stitch, to secure the final edge! Just repeat the same blanket stitch process as before. Your piece of padding should have been cut in such a way that you don't pierce it with your needle. Once you're done with this step, all your edges will be secured and you won't have to deal with constant fraying. Hooray!

Attaching The Twig

Time to add our makeshift dowel: the twig! You'll want to attach it securely, as it needs to hold the full weight of the banner.

Attaching With Loops

I've found that the easiest way to attach the twig is to create a series of loops. For a strong hold, I used all 6 strands of DMC 554 at once. You can add as many loops to the twig as you like - more loops create a fuller, more decorative look along the top. Just don't add too few, as you don't want anything to be under strain!

Tying Thread To Banner

You've now got a series of loops hanging from your twig, each with two thread ends. These two ends are what you'll use to attach the twig to the banner.

Flip your banner upside down and lay it flat. Align your twig above the top edge, positioning each loop above one of your perpendicular blanket stitches. Then, for each loop, feed one thread end underneath the blanket stitch and tie a loose knot with both ends together (see image below). A needle can help if you're struggling to feed the thread underneath.

Once all your loops are loosely knotted, the twig should be held in place well enough for you to hold it up and check the result. Are you happy with the distance between the twig and the banner? You can adjust this by pulling the knots tighter or loosening them. Once you're happy, tie one or two more knots on top of each loose knot and pull tight to secure. Your banner should now hang evenly from the twig, with none of the blanket stitches being pulled upward too much.

What To Do With All Those Threads At The Back?

You probably have a few leftover thread ends dangling at the back from the previous step. You can cut these short if you prefer a neat finish, but I've left a little length on mine - they're easy to smooth flat against the backing fabric, where they stay hidden.

Your Finished Banner!

Adding A Hanging Cord

Your twig banner is now ready to be admired! If you'd like, you can add a hanging cord using your leftover DMC 554. For mine, I again used all 6 strands at once and made a folded loop, just like before. I secured the loop around one end of the twig, then brought both thread ends across to the other end and tied them in a knot there. I then turned the knot to the back of the twig so it stays hidden from the front.

And that's it, your twig banner is complete! I hope you enjoyed the process. Now go find it a good spot on the wall and step back to admire it! 🌿🌞

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